Nourishing DIY Shampoo Bar with Chamomile & Calendula
Gentle. Restorative. Sulfate-free.
If you’re looking for a natural, effective alternative to liquid shampoos that are often loaded with synthetic detergents, this chamomile and calendula shampoo bar is a perfect solution. Packed with nourishing oils and botanical infusions, it gently cleanses while promoting healthy hair and scalp.
Below, you’ll find a detailed shampoo bar recipe including percentages, grams, and ounces—perfect for beginners or seasoned soapmakers alike!
Ingredients & Benefits
Base Oils
| Ingredient | Weight (oz) | Grams | Percentage | Benefit |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Coconut Oil | 7 oz | 198 g | 26.4% | Lathers beautifully and provides cleansing power. |
| Almond Oil | 7 oz | 198 g | 26.4% | Lightweight, rich in Vitamin E, helps condition and soften hair. |
| Avocado Oil | 7 oz | 198 g | 26.4% | Deeply moisturizing, helps with dry scalp and brittle hair. |
| Olive Oil | 7 oz | 198 g | 26.4% | Mild and nourishing, adds softness and shine to hair. |
| Castor Oil | 1.5 oz | 43 g | 5.6% | Boosts lather, promotes hair growth and scalp circulation. |
| Argan Oil | 1.5 oz | 43 g | 5.6% | Rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids—restores shine and repairs damage. |
Additives & Lye Solution
| Ingredient | Weight (oz) | Grams | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Apple Cider Vinegar | 2 oz | 57 g | Balances scalp pH, adds shine, and gently exfoliates. |
| Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) | 4.31 oz | 121 g | Required for saponification (turning oils into soap). |
| Water (infused with chamomile & calendula) | 10 oz | 283 g | Soothes scalp, calms irritation, and strengthens hair follicles. |
Total Oil Weight: 31 oz (879 g)
Superfat: 5%
Lye Discount: Built-in for gentle cleansing.
This will fill a larger loaf mold. In the photos, I made a half batch and only used the smaller silicone mold.
Why Chamomile & Calendula?
These gentle herbs are known for their soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making them ideal for sensitive or dry scalps.
- Chamomile: Brightens hair naturally, soothes the scalp, and promotes relaxation.
- Calendula: Antibacterial and healing—excellent for dandruff or scalp irritation.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Important: Always wear gloves and goggles when working with lye. Work in a well-ventilated area.
1. Prepare the Herbal Water
- Infuse 10 oz (283 g) of distilled water with dried chamomile and calendula flowers. Let steep until cool. Strain and set aside. Essentially, you are making tea here!
2. Mix the Lye Solution
- Slowly add 4.31 oz (121 g) of lye to the cooled, infused water (never the other way around!). Stir gently until fully dissolved. Let it cool to about 100–120°F.
3. Melt and Combine Oils
- In a large container, combine:
- Coconut, almond, avocado, olive, castor, and argan oils.
- Gently heat if needed until everything is melted and uniform. Let oils cool to 100–120°F.
4. Blend Lye & Oils
- When both oils and lye water are within the same temperature range (100–120°F), slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
5. Stick Blend to Trace
- Use a stick blender to mix until light to medium trace is reached. Add 2 oz (57 g) of Apple Cider Vinegar at light trace and stir well.
6. Pour into Mold
- Pour into a silicone mold or a loaf mold. Tap to remove bubbles. I made a half batch so I poured mine into little silicone molds. I do prefer a loaf as it makes a prettier bar in my opinion.
7. Cure
- Allow to saponify for 24–48 hours before unmolding. Cut into bars if using a loaf mold.
- Cure for 4–6 weeks in a cool, dry place to ensure a gentle, long-lasting bar. This bar is rather soft after unmolding it. It definitely needs the full time to cure and get solid.
Tips for Best Results
- Use a silicone mold for easy release and clean edges.
- ACV may accelerate trace—add it last and stir in thoroughly.
- Optional: Add a few drops of rosemary or lavender essential oil for scent and scalp benefits.
How to Use a Shampoo Bar
- Wet your hair and the bar.
- Rub the bar between hands or directly on scalp.
- Lather and massage into hair and scalp.
- Rinse thoroughly. Follow with an ACV or herbal rinse if desired.
Questions About Shampoo Bars
- Will I still need conditioner after shampooing? That depends on your hair. I have used it without conditioner, my hair is still manageable, and I can comb through it. However, I have thick hair and I find that I prefer a bit of conditioner or a leave-in product after washing.
- Can I use the shampoo bar as soap all over my body? Yes! Actually, if you find that you don’t care for using a shampoo bar, this makes a great nourishing soap as well!
- Is this gentle enough for use on children? Yes, however, it will burn your eyes if it gets in them.
Hi, I ran this recipe through soap calc and I can’t figure out how this is only 5% superfat. It looks like its 50% superfat. Is this the case?
Goodness! Thank you for catching that! When I was working on the recipe I was making half batches so that I didn’t waste too many ingredients if it didn’t turn out. When I inserted the recipe into my blog, I made a mistake and didn’t double the lye, I accidentally kept it at the half amount! I fixed it and hopefully I dind’t cause anyone to make a soggy batch of soap!